Roy’s Peak Lookout

“The earth has music for those who listen”

– George Santayana

Recently Michael and I visited the beautiful resort town of Wanaka for the first time, on New Zealand’s South Island. Despite being only 75 km from the busy, frantic pace of the adrenaline capital Queenstown, the town has a relaxing, soothing and uncrowded feel to it, surrounded by majestic snowy mountains and is situated on the southern shores of Lake Wanaka, the fourth largest lake in New Zealand.

The Roys Peak track is one of the most popular walks in Wanaka and is an estimated five to six hours return up to the summit at 1,578 m, covering 16 km of ground and offering breathtaking views of Lake Wanaka, Mount Aspiring and the surrounding mountain peaks.

Michael had seen photos of the incredible views from the Roy’s Peak lookout (just below the summit) in travel blogs and Instagram shots and was keen to witness them firsthand. So, on our first day in Wanaka we set off shortly after lunch, driving for about 6 km before leaving our car in the little car park at the base of Mount Roy and starting the steep climb up into the green paddocks above. The track was wide and grassy, zigzagging up the side of the mountain through privately owned farmers’ land, where we passed sheep and cows grazing peacefully in the warm afternoon sunshine. Climbing higher we watched our car below gradually becoming smaller and smaller, and the picturesque views stretch out before our eyes.

It was hard not to keep stopping for photos, the views were stunning – but we knew they’d become even more amazing the higher we climbed. We crossed over some stiles and a couple of fast-trickling streams hurriedly making their way down the green mountain, all the while taking care not to step in sheep and cow poo across the path – it was everywhere!

Gradually, big white blobs of snow began to splatter the path, building up along the way only for us to turn a corner and find the next stretch a wash of grassy green and muddy brown; all snow melted away. As the way became whiter through tussock grasslands and alpine meadows another world unfolded before us, and we found ourselves trying not to slip on steep paths of slushy ice, trodden down by many pairs of feet before us, the landscape ahead now ablaze with a bright snowy white glow.

Looking up the mountain from the car park at the start, it hadn’t looked like there was much snow on it. However, after climbing for two hours a wintry scene had revealed itself, stretching up towards the summit as far as the eye could see, and we realised how far we still had to go.

The air became colder the higher we climbed but it felt hot in the sun, and only upon reaching a shady crook of the mountain did I put on any of the warm layers I’d been carrying up with me. I felt grateful for the extra clothes as we ascended; the New Zealand weather can change rapidly at these altitudes, so it’s important to prepare for all conditions.

Walking along I noticed that on the edges of the track the snow lay smooth and undisturbed, except for the odd footprint that had strayed from the flat well-pressed path. Whoever’s footprint that was would have likely got a shock, I thought, as when I looked down I could see it was embedded at least a foot deep!

Occasionally we passed other hikers on their way back down, of varying ages and nationalities. The air was starting to cool and the light not as bright now the midday sun had moved across the sky. The climb so far had been steep and strenuous, with slow progress in the snow and we still seemed some way from the top, but we persevered. I was determined to reach the lookout, and was surprised when we suddenly came across it after three hours. Michael immediately recognized it as the famous scene he’d seen in his photos, although I was too busy looking up the thick snow-covered path continuing towards the summit, which I had prepared myself to climb and couldn’t believe we’d reached our goal already.

For anyone wanting to climb to the summit, the track continues steeply from where we were for another 200 m. For us, we had reached the point we had aimed for and stood now gazing out, thoroughly entranced by the incredible view that beheld us of deep blue Lake Wanaka below and rugged white ridged mountains beyond, dipping and rising far into the distance – with Mount Aspiring and the surrounding National Park to the left and the tiny buildings of Wanaka town to the right.

And not another person in sight.

Because we had started the walk around 1pm, by 4pm most people had come and gone. The large platform we stood on was trodden down with the snowy prints of multitudes of people, and I’ve since read that it’s here they must wait for their turn to take a walk out onto the narrow ridge to admire the majestic views far beyond. But, having the place to ourselves, we both wandered out onto the ridge together, cautiously walking along in single file and taking care not to slip, as the mountain fell away either side of us.

Once at the end of the path we stood on a tiny platform just big enough for us both, admiring the panoramic views all around. I had a moment of vertigo when I realised just how high up I was, precariously perched above steep drops with nothing to stop me should I fall! I had also been merrily juggling around the iPhone, SLR and GoPro to take photos, all whilst balanced on this tiny bit of mountain peak! After a while we carefully made our way back along the ridge, before taking turns to walk back out alone and pose for one of the iconic photos.

Sometime later four other people came along, one solo and three in a group – the last people we saw come up the mountain that day. It was starting to get dark and the sun had slowly started sinking behind the mountain, so we decided to make our descent. The way back down was slow at first as the paths were very slippery and slushy, and the air felt cold in the early evening shadows. We tried nonetheless to keep up a good pace.

As we descended we suddenly heard a rumbling sound in the distance, across the otherwise now silent snowy fields. I couldn’t recognise what it was and it didn’t sound like it was getting closer. Then Michael saw dust rising up in the distance, further up the mountain, and we realised it was a rock fall. Being quite a distance away from the cliffs however, we didn’t worry.

Gradually the snow receded and soft green grassy paths were once again under our tired feet. From time to time there were narrow trails leading almost straight down the mountain, enabling us to take shortcuts and miss out covering the ground needed on the zigzag track. Yes, they saved time but were very harsh on the knee joints, especially at our rapid pace!

By the time we got to the bottom of the mountain I was almost limping (and the next day was fairly stiff and sore). Arriving back at the car park around four and a half hours since we started, dusk had set in and we gratefully sank into the car seats. The mountain dimmed before us, its magnificent beauty of before now shaded and sleeping for the night.

Things to note on this walk:

The track is closed from 1 October to 10 November for lambing season.

Parking is free, however there is a little box requesting a $2 donation per person at the start of the walk.

There’s no clean water supply available and no shelter from the hot sun so be sure to take more water than you think you will need to avoid dehydrating. Be prepared by also wearing plenty of sunscreen.

The only toilet is at the start of the track by the car park at the bottom of the mountain.

As it’s an exposed alpine track weather conditions can change quite dramatically at any time, so be sure to wear layers and bring a warm, windproof jacket. Proper fitting and cushioned footwear is also essential.

The hike can be done at any time of the day although early morning after breakfast is popular. I’ve also heard of people hiking up in the dark to reach the summit for sunrise, while others choose to spend the night camping on top of Roy’s Peak to enjoy the sunset and sunrise from up there. Remember to pack a head torch.

Don’t forget your food and a good camera to record your memories!

Interesting facts:

Roy’s Peak was most likely named after Scottish outlaw and folk hero Rob Roy MacGregor, back when the first Europeans began exploring the Otago area in the 19th Century. Liam Neeson played Rob Roy in the 1995 film.

Wanaka’s name is derived from Oanaka, meaning “place of Anaka” – Anaka being the name of an early Maori chief.

Lake Wanaka was mentioned twice in the movie Mission: Impossible III and was the answer to Tom Cruise’s question on the phone to verify the identity of his wife. While previously filming The Last Samurai Cruise visited Wanaka, and it’s thought the references come from his time there.

The bottom of Lake Wanaka is below sea level.

In the first Lord of the Rings movie the opening sequence is a shot of Mount Aspiring.