There are some sights in the world that never cease to remind us just how small, fragile and insignificant we are on this planet, compared to the vast scale of nature. Rob Roy Glacier was definitely one of them, I thought, as I stood in the valley and stared up in awe, the blinding white glacier thousands of feet above me…
New Zealand has many stunning glaciers and most are situated on the South Island in the Southern Alps, including the Rob Roy Hanging Glacier, which once filled the Rob Roy Valley where it is located but now covers just the head. Around 20,000 years ago at the peak of the last ice age, it flowed out into the huge Matukituki Glacier which later combined with the Wanaka Glacier, forming a river of ice down the Curtha Valley.
Returning to the beautiful little town of Wanaka for a mini break, Michael and I decided to drive into Mount Aspiring National Park which has over 100 glaciers, and hike the three-to-four hour 10 km Rob Roy Glacier Track after hearing how pleasant the walk was and how spectacular the scenery; an amazing world of crystal clear mountain streams, high waterfalls, steep cliffs and alpine valleys.
The drive from Wanaka one Saturday morning took us about an hour, with the last 40 minutes being off-road along a gravel track through the stunning Matukituki Valley. On the way we passed through seven or eight fords, a couple of which were fairly deep and made a huge splash (due to some rain the night before) as our little car veered through them!
It was a beautiful bright and warm spring day and the morning sun shone down on us as we passed through wide flat grassy plains. Big brown and white cows grazed lazily in the fields around us, occasionally taking time to observe our car between mouthfuls, as we slowed down for photos. Waterfalls cascaded down through deep crevices in the tall mountains surrounding us and higher snowy peaks sometimes came into view beyond.
Leaving our car at the Raspberry Creek car park, a single track led us on a 15-minute walk across some farmland, passing more cows and sheep, and down to a swing bridge crossing the Matukituki River. There was a fierce wind out in the open and I initially wished I had brought my woolly hat and gloves, however, once across the bridge into the shelter of tall beech forest trees, the air was cool and calm.
We walked through the shady forest along a single mud track lined with ferns and mosses, through occasional trickling streams, up and over rocks and around puddles. The icy blue Rob Roy Stream rushed alongside us as we made our way uphill along the valley, from time to time catching a glimpse of the bright white glacier between the trees.
At a couple of points along the path we climbed down some steep banks to the water’s edge to try and get a better view of the valley, being careful not to slip. Huge round boulders sat in the middle of the rushing stream wearing dark green mossy hats, as the water scattered sunlight and shadows against their sides. The stream glowed a milky turquoise colour, caused by ‘rock flour’, sediment which is created by rocks grinding together under the glacier.
From down on the riverbank we looked up and saw for the first time the huge glacier in the distance. In the morning light it seemed to have a blue sheen to it, which I later learned was because blue light is able to penetrate snow and ice, unlike red and yellow light waves. Standing there by the loud rushing water, next to the huge rocks and far below the glacier further up the valley I felt very small, exposed and vulnerable yet at the same time in that moment connected to nature and very much a part of this incredible world around me!
Back up on the path the walk was fairly easy and enjoyable. Birds chirped excitedly in the trees around us, the forest being home to riflemans, tomtits, and fantails, although I was sad to not see any kea which are said to be common in the area. Eventually, the trees dispersed and we found ourselves out in an area of sparse alpine vegetation covered with huge rocks and boulders, where a few other hikers sat having a break or taking photos. We made our way across and continued on through more forest, catching a few more glimpses of brilliant white through the green veil of trees, until finally, coming out into a clearing.
Large rocks and vegetation lined the valley floor whilst up to our left tall thin waterfalls flowed down the jagged cliffs. Next to them the Rob Roy Falls (261 metres) cascaded down, where the wind whipped the water up and carried it away in a mist out over the valley below, the waterfall rarely ever being seen to make it to the bottom. It’s said that on cold days as it falls through the air in the shade of the cliff the meltwater can re-freeze, depositing again as snow and ice at the foot of the falls.
And then, ahead of us, thousands of feet above, the glacier shone brightly, huge chunks of snow precariously perched on the top of the cliffs, looking like at any minute they might break off and tumble down into the valley below, which is a regular sight in the spring melt. The sun beamed down and light cumulus clouds passed slowly overhead as we gazed up in awe at this magnificent sight, time seeming to stand still.
The view was a lot to take in and really reminded me how precious the natural world is, and how amazing it is to be able to see glaciers while we still can.
After a while of admiring the scenery from our seat up on a large rock and listening to the quiet roar of the river in the valley below, we finished our snacks and headed back on the path we had come, back to the car park. The walk took us the full four hours, including plenty of stops and exploring down by the river. We drove back to Wanaka feeling happy and content having spent time in nature on such a beautiful day and ready for the afternoon ahead.
Talking of glaciers
A glacier is a large, slow moving body of ice, transforming over time due to its constant movement and sheer size.
The speed glaciers move at varies, but they’ve been known to move as fast as 20-30 m per day. Some glaciers have surges of movement and can reach even greater speeds.
They appear on every continent except Australia.
Their size ranges in length from the equivalent of a football field to more than 100 miles.
The largest glacier on earth is the Lambert Glacier in East Antartica, currently at about 100 km wide, over 400 km long and around 2,500 m deep.
Global warming means sea levels are rising as glaciers are melting, and if temperatures keep increasing some could disappear completely. Many plants, animals and other wildlife are dependent on glaciers for their existence and are affected by the rapid melting, with many becoming endangered, so threatening the balance of existing ecosystems.